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So far I pay $365 a month for my car note which is a two year loan. If I trade it in and ask for a longer car loan will the payments go down

You owe $7000 on an 11 year old car??? Sorry bro you got yourself ripped off and you’ll actually come out ahead if you give the car back to the dealer and stop paying.

If you have bad credit anyway just stop paying and drive it until they repo it.

Judging that you got into a situation that you owe so much on such an old car you can’t afford a new mustang or lancer anyway!

Doubt the payments would go down unless you do a very long loan.You are rolling $7k-whatever your CL is worth into a new loan.That’s a lot of money.

Thats a heavy note for an older ride. Taking in consideration its a two yr note did you buy it from a tote your note? With that type of negative equity you should consider keeping the Acura. If credit is an issue youre looking at a larger monthly payment on longer to pay off IF someone will fund the loan.

I have a 1994 Acura Integra LS. Twice now I’ve noticed water pooling in my trunk where the spare tire is located. However, the carpet and the wood in the trunk are dry. It takes about two-three towels to soak up all the water.Where’s it coming from? Easy fixes with details(pictures too maybe?) would be great.

u can either get a gun and shoot a drain hole thru the tire wheel well where the spare is or u can get an elephant that will transfer the water from ur trunk to his trunk…….if u select the latter get the elephant out of the acura before u go anywhere cause they dramatically reduce the miles per gallon…

Check the seals around the trunk by pouring water using a hose or something along those lines around the trunk. then check where its coming in. Should be a pretty easy fix by either fixing a possible tear in the seal or replacing a piece of the seal which you can purchase from the dealership or online.

open the trunk….up at the top of th opening under the trunk lid there should b water drainage passages….most likely these have been clogged up by debris……quite common and should b cleaned out once a year on non garaged vehicles……..

use a water hose and maybe a piece of wire(like a clothes hanger bent straight) if need to clean out the drainage holes…..and that should fix ur problem…

what parts do i need to turbo my 1999 acura integra? i also dont want to spend over $1000 on it.

If you’re no going to spend over a $1000, forget about it.A descent turbo kit costs around $3000 plus th labor to install it.

these guys are right, it cant be done for a grand but cpr is wrong about acouple things. the bottom end in an LS is better suited for forced induction than a type r or gsr. I would take an LS block throw on a type r head and ecu then go with a greddy turbo kit. if the work is done correctly and you tune everything right you could run with almost anything you’d typically see on the street

even with a cheap turbo from ebay you cannot turbo a car and get performance with less then 1000 dollars.cheap kits are more prone to failure and in the long run could hurt your car.you are better off getting a more expensive turbo and quality then taking your cars life at your hands

If you want to do it the right way, it will cost more than $1,000.
Why turbo an integra anyway? It’s not gonna make it faster then most cars out now.
Maybe do it if you have a GSR or type R but it can’t be done right for under $1,000. You will have more problems that will end up costing you a lot more $$$.

You CANNOT do it for $1,000 in any way that will be reliable. The CHEAPEST kit you will find is around $2,500 and these do not have any form of fuel management, or tuning. The Greddy kits have EVERYTHING you need and run about $3,500. Here are some other alternatives

http://www.turbo-kits.com/integra_turbo_??

Check your application status online at epfindia.com

Good Luck…

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/catalog/fields/fields.sfcvtc_g.jpg Here is a picture of a fuel controller . Please let me know

Can’t see the point,of this exercise..Especially if the car is,stock standard..Better off saving the money,for more important things,i feel.Like maybe putting towards a new car,maybe dinner & flowers
for the girlfriend..
Stay well & happy.Be safe..Best wishes.

yes it would. seeing that im assuming your car is bone stock…

x2 with kyle.

no real need for such a thing in hondas……itll be cheaper to just get a spare ecu and chip it…..and besides…you dont have vtec or a turbo to mess with….if you did…a boost controller or a vtec controller is what youll need…not a fuel controller….

i have checked the sunroof drainage tubes and they are fine, what else could it be?

try spraying the car down with water, and look under the lining of the hatch and see if you spot any wet spots

have someone sit/lay downit in trunk and with a flash light look around for any signs of moisture

Pull all the carpeting up,in the trunk.Make sure there are no rust,pin holes anywhere,sometimes
happens that moisture,trapped under the carpet,becomes a problem..
My Gut feeling is that the trunk seal,has become soft..What i would do,is after checking the carpet
area & such,if nothing wrong there.I would replace the trunk seal,not expensive about $70..Also check all mounting bolts for the lid of trunk,if not tight could be the problem..Feel it’s the seal,i do..
Good luck & happy motoring..Be well & safe,best wishes to you..

Check the gasket that runs around the trunk bottom/car body. Could be dry rotted or there could be a stick or leaf.

the gaskets around your tail lights. they need to be replaced if old. use some window foam strip and it’ll work just fine.

I have changed the distributor, gas filter, and full pump and its still having problems turning on it does turn on sometimes. Does anybody know what esle can be the problem???

maybe change out the main relay. its located under the driver dash. heres a link

I heard that somewhere, but I thought the GSR had like 30 more hp?

whoever says a LS/VTEC is unreliable is totally misinformed. What happens is people skimp when building them and THAT causes the problems. The biggest things people skimp on are not really that expensive, but they do it anyway. First people try to run the LS (B18B) water pump, this pump has 19 teeth, when you need the GSR water pump that has 22 teeth. This allows better cooling at the higher RPM range where the VTEC allows the engine to go, it is a $150 part. The next thing is they try to make their own dowel pins, instead of getting a complete gasket/dowel pin set from a place like Golden Eagle. Their kit has the head gasket for the swap, a regular LS, or GSR gasket has to be modified to block certain oil orifices for the head not to leak. This leads to the other major thing, they fail to take the head and block to a machine shop to get surfaced so they seat properly. And last but not least they seem to forget to replace the timing belt, and oil pump. All these thing will lead to failure of the engine, causing people to call them unreliable. I am proof that if it’s built right it will last. I have a 99 civic coupe with a JG Engine Dynamics bottom end (B18B1) and a fully built Skunk2 head from my old B16, making a LS/VTEC engine. It is running a Peakboost GT35R turbo kit, snow perfomance methanol, AEM EMS, LSD, and other stuff (too much to write) and at 40 psi it makes a little over 700 fwhp. It runs 15 psi for daily driving and makes 419 fwhp and has been this way for over 2 years. I have had no problems, except for traction, and it has never let me down. As for the power it makes, a stock GSR puts down right at 145-150 fwhp on a dyno, and a basic LS/VTEC will make around 175 on the same dyno.

Its hard to say, because each LS/VTEC is individual to itself there is no stock LS/VTEC rating.

depends on who builds the LS/VTEC.

there are mixed reviews about LS/VTEC’s since its a Frankenstein motor (making a non-vtec motor vtec).

If its done correctly a LS/VTEC or CR/VTEC is faster than a stock GSR.

LS VTEC is faster than the GSR but it’s really unreliable. If i were you, i would just get a GSR and mod it up. As for the civic Si, it’s almost about the same as the GSR, just .2 Liters less(1.6 as opposed to the 1.8L GSR) and about 10hp less than the GSR also

everything is about money man. if you have the money you got yourself a fast and reliable car.

My dad is letting me buy his, its got a little over 100 thousand miles, its in amazing condition, so I wanna know if its a fast car compared to others? Would it be a decent race with the average car of its class? Also, what are some fairly inexpensive upgrades that would make it dramatically better. (Already has a header)

thanks

As mentioned prior it was good for its time and with some minor mods still a contender in the ricer world.
If this is your first car be more concerned about learning to drive then racing and injuring yourself or worse an innocent victim.

What cars are you comparing it to? To some cars, yes it is faster to other cars it’s not. So be more specific.

It was quick for its day.Its not going to beat anything in its class today though.

It was OK 14 years ago.Today, so so

if you have a GSR then you need the premium unless you want a bad motor. but if you have just the regular gs ls or rs model then you should be fine with just regular 87/89 octane.

Yes they take premium.Yes the computer can adjust but its not made to do this all the time.Its going to do long term damage by using regular.

Its not good to run regular gas in it but if you want to get around the prices of premium look online and they have additives that you can add to you tank to compensate.